|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
Message thread at CPP
<< Back to previous page
***Clicker Club***I will check into that Boston. I would like to have an i-click. When I first started training Little Man, he was afraid of the clicker, and would sometimes spook and flee when I clicked. Of course, he has been doing this for so long now that he just expects to hear the clicker. I can see him always listening for it. He's not spoiled though, not at all! :-)
I think it would be very nice for you to write up something outlining how you use clicker training to teach heeling. Then I will try it with our dog! | 
EagleGirl & Deerslayer | | 2010-09-10 06:40:05 | | | Well Eagle.....First i found Apple Oat treats he liked and first made a clicking sound with my tongue and then went over to the clicker and then i started petting him and hugging and then when he bit i said "NO!" Then when he was good for 1 minute i gave him a treat and increased that time and them MAGIC! STOPPED! So then i lost the clicker and need a new one! So yay! My grandpa is kind of blind so he will never ever ride a horse because then if the horse bucked him off then he will be completely blind so! | 
Comanche1999 & Dancer | | 2010-09-11 12:29:28 | | Brea, Boston has given you some excellent advice. Crate training is an excellent idea. When we got our dog she was crate trained already. I wasn't too sure about how I felt about it, but after doing some reading I realized that it is a good thing. It is natural for a dog to have a den, its own place where it feels safe. When a dog is crate trained he will go to his crate whenever he feels the need to be away from attention. Dogs sleep a lot, so it is not a bad thing for him to be trained to sleep in the crate.
I will say that I defer to Boston on the housebreaking. Our dog was impeccably housebroken when we got her. We had a foster dog several years ago, and I never was able to housetrain her. I did not know about clicker training, so I just used conventional methods. I did try praising her when she went outside, but she still went inside too. I think that surely you could use the clicker to help housebreak a dog. Your dog is young, and his bladder is not going to be as strong or large as an adult dog's. So he needs to go outside frequently.
If you can get him on a "potty" schedule, that would be a good idea. Leave him in the crate unless you are brushing him, playing with him, loving on him, etc. Every couple of hours take him outside. I am not exactly sure if you should click the instant he lifts his leg or squats, or if you should wait a moment. I do believe you want to click while he is going, and not wait until he is finished. You don't want to distract him, but it wouldn't, I wouldn't think. I suppose you can click and calmly hand him a treat while he is going. Anyone else have any experience with this?
Perhaps some of the Karen Pryor books will have some information on this. Our library has one; I will take a look at it and see what I can find. We will also look forward to hearing more from Boston and from others who have experience with using the clicker to help housetrain a dog.
As for the head butting, Boston is on the right track there as well. If possible, ignore him when he head butts. Keep your eyes focused away from him, and do not acknowledge him. When he stops, click and treat, and pet and praise him and give him a little attention. If you do this consistently, he will eventually calm down and realize that he gets attention when he is calm and not jumping on you.
As for the digging, I really don't have too much good advice there, except that you will need to keep him away from the places he likes to dig, like your dad's strawberries. Let's see. . . you could walk him over to the strawberries, point to them, and tell him "No!", then walk away. As you walk away, you might click and treat. Also, it might be helpful to provide him with several toys that he can enjoy, to help take his mind off the strawberries. It might be necessary to fence around the strawberries as well.
Hang in there. He is young, and as he matures he should settle down a bit. But remember that retrievers are famous for their exuberance. Every day a holiday, every meal a buffet. :-) |
EagleGirl & Deerslayer | | 2010-09-24 06:01:59 | | Hi Lisa, and welcome! We are delighted to have you join us!
About Star: I know the "trick" to which you are referring. It is an old horseman's trick, and it helps the horse to get used to your scent, and can be very calming. But you have to be observant, and know how your horse may react.
I greet my Welsh mule by putting my face down to his muzzle, and he greets me by nuzzling my cheek. This is our ritual. He has bumped me in the face twice in the past year, because he was upset or annoyed by my other mule both times, and I was not observant enough and chose the wrong time to ask for "kisses". He and I have a very strong bond, and it is reflected in our little ritual. I would not be as quick to put my face to another equine's face, though.
My appaloosa mule was a frequent head tosser when we got her. We had only had her a week or so when she tossed her head and caught me in the face. I had to go to the dentist and get my front teeth checked out! I very quickly learned that I did NOT put my face near her head, and I did not stand with my face over her face. Nonetheless, she has still managed to hit me with her head several more times, even though I am careful.
We have been working on this, using the clicker, and it has been slow. She is 20, so there is no telling how long she has had the head tossing habit. I worked from the side, and started by putting my arm under her head and cradling it, and gently touching her off cheek. I clicked, removed my arm, and treated. At first she tossed her head almost immediately, and I had to observe her carefully so I could click before she tossed her head. Gradually, I was able to "hold" her head for longer and longer periods of time, but it was slow. She still tosses her head sometimes, but not nearly as often.
Just the other day, I felt that I could start working with her on "kisses". I am still very cautious, though. I only attempt it while she is haltered, and I hold the halter right under her chin. I keep her head to the side and gently raise up her muzzle to my cheek. I click, pull my head back and release the lead, and treat. I do not just lean forward towards her. We have only worked on this twice so far, and though she is allowing it, she is not actively involved in it. I am guiding and holding her head with the halter. She is not a demonstrative animal, like my other mule, so she may never freely give "kisses". Time will tell, but this is my perception.
Now, with Star, she is biting, which is an aggressive act. Head tossing can be a nervous habit, or show agitation, but biting is actively directed at you. Star needs to learn that biting is never tolerated.
I believe that combining methods is a good thing, and when you are dealing with aggressive and/or dangerous behavior, you must address it. Sometimes it is not enough to wait for the right behavior to be exhibited so you can click.
So, first of all, do not put your face in Star's face. Keep yourself safe. Second, try working from the side of her head, rather than directly in front of her. Try what I did with my appy mule. You know Star best, so you should decide if you want to work with her on a lead or at liberty. I worked with my appy mule at liberty, because I didn't want her to feel confined, and I didn't want to have to mess with a lead. I wanted all my focus to be on her. I am using the halter and lead now that I am working on "kisses", and that is to keep me safe from getting hit in the face again.
So, try standing next to her head, facing the same direction she is. Gently place your arm under her face and cradle her head in your arm. You can place your hand on her off cheek. As soon as you attain this position, click, remove your arm, and treat. Repeat, gradually holding her head for longer periods of time before clicking and treating.
You can then move to placing your hand over her muzzle or the front of her face. Repeat the above procedure, gradually extending the length of time you hold her before clicking and treating.
Once she is allowing you to cradle her head, you might try putting your cheek against hers. But observe her very carefully for any signs of aggression. It is difficult to see her ears when you have your cheek against hers, but the more time you spend with her, the more of her cues you will be able to pick up on.
Your next step might be to halter her, and hold the lead very firmly right under her chin, as I am doing with my appy mule. Stand for a moment, click, release, and treat. Repeat. Gradually extend the time you hold her head and muzzle still before you click and treat. When you feel she is ready, grasp the lead and hold her head, then lean towards her just a little, an inch or so. Immediately click, lean back and release her head, then treat. Repeat. Observe her very carefully for any signs of aggression. If her ears go back even slightly, release her and wait. Once her ears go forward you can try again.
As you slowly work through the process, you should be able to move your face closer and closer to hers. But don't put your face directly to her muzzle; keep to one side. I use my right cheek and place it on my mule's right side. He doesn't give "kisses" too well on the other side, though I do ask once in a while. It works fine for me to just have "kisses" on the right side, but you can certainly work with both sides if you like. Keep a firm hold on the lead, and don't let your guard down. Take your time, and move as slowly as you need to.
Please let me know how it is going as you start to work through this process. Every animal is different, and each one has his own timetable. Remember, the key is observation. Observe Star, and she will let you know what she needs. Good luck. We are looking forward to hearing how it is going! |
EagleGirl & Deerslayer | | 2010-09-24 06:33:58 | | Clicker Column - Wiggins Weekly September 18, 2010
Last week we went through the steps involved in teaching your pony to let you approach him and touch him. Then we listed the general steps necessary to teach your pony to put on a halter. If there is anyone who is actively involved in halter training, and you need more help with this step, please write me at the Clicker Club and I will analyze each of those steps with you. If your pony already walks on a halter, but is difficult to get the halter on, you will find that it is worth your time to go back and go through this process with him. Once you have, you will have a pony that looks at the halter as a positive thing, rather than a negative thing, and you will no longer spend much of your time trying to catch your pony and halter him.
Remember that each pony is different, and will have his own timetable. Some ponies will have that halter on in a lesson or two. Others may take weeks, or longer. But if you will be patient, and work calmly and quietly, you and your pony will be successful. Just build on each small success, and if at any time your pony is not successful, remember to back up to the last place that he was successful, go over it a few times, then proceed. If he is very nervous, you might just stop at that success, and pick up there next time. If he just didn't understand, or you moved too fast, then once you have given him success, you can proceed to the next tiny step. Be sure to end EVERY clicker session with success!
This week we are going to talk about how to teach your pony to walk on a lead. The process I am going to take you through is probably a little different than many clicker trainers will do it. I am going to show you how I taught my Welsh mule to walk on a lead. You might remember he had been abused, and was afraid to let anyone near him, much less touch him. So haltering him was not an option for a very long time. I did, however, eventually teach him that he could indeed wear a halter, and I did it following the steps I outlined for you at the end of last week's column. Because of his fear, and because I was not willing to push him, it took us a very long time indeed. We took excruciatingly tiny steps, because that is what he needed. Clicker training is all about finding what your animal needs, and going from there. And that is what I did with my mule. And it is what you can do with your pony, dog, hamster, or other animal friend.
Now, in order to follow the procedure that I used with my mule, your pony needs to be able to target. So if he does not target, you need to go back a couple of columns and read about targeting, then teach your pony to target. Once he is working well with the target, ask him to target something else. At some point, you will want to teach him to target a rope. A short rope is just fine; you can use a lead rope if you like, though it is a little awkward because of the metal clip on one end. I went to the hardware store and asked them to cut a seven foot length of thick, soft rope. They sealed both ends for me so it would not unravel. This is the rope I used with my mule.
Now, show your pony the rope and ask him to "Touch it." The instant he makes any movement towards the rope, click and treat. Repeat a few times, then wait until he moves a little closer. Click and treat. Continue until he actually touches the rope. The first time he touches the rope, immediately click, pull the rope back, and give a jackpot treat. Now your pony knows that what he did was really good. Immediately ask him to target the rope again, and as soon as he touches it, click and treat, with a normal treat (though if you think he might need another jackpot, you can use that as well). If he does not target the rope, just stand and wait. Don't jiggle or wiggle the rope, don't chatter at him, just stand quietly and wait. If after a significant wait, he has not touched the rope, you need to back up to the last place he was successful. Since he did touch it once, you can ask him to "Touch it" again. He may have forgotten what you wanted, or not be sure. If he still doesn't touch it, you can turn around, walk off, wait a minute, then come back and ask him to touch it again. Then you will click for any movement towards the rope, thus starting at the beginning of this process again. Continue working your way back up to the point where he is touching the rope.
Once he is touching the rope consistently, it is time to move the rope to a different spot. Let him have the opportunity to touch it in front of him, up a bit, down a bit, to the left, to the right, up to the left, down to the right . . . you get the idea! Just move the rope all over the place, and ask him to touch it in each spot. Once he is consistently touching the rope no matter where you hold it, you are ready to move on. But remember, if he does not touch the rope when you move it, go back to where he was successful, then move the rope a shorter distance away for the next targeting.
Once he is touching the rope wherever you hold it, it is time to start asking him to follow it. You will do this by holding out the rope, stepping back a step, and asking him to touch it. Because you have stepped back, he can no longer reach the rope by stretching out his neck, and he will have to take a step towards it. Let him take the step, and the instant he touches the rope click and give a jackpot treat. Repeat this several times, switching back to normal treats. If you find that he does not touch the rope, ask again, then click for the first step he takes. Treat. Continue this, waiting a little longer each time, until he does touch the rope. Click and give a jackpot, then proceed. Then, step back two steps and ask him to touch it again. He will now need to take two steps to reach the rope and target it. Click as soon as his muzzle touches the rope, then treat. Once he has mastered this, step back even farther so that now he has to take three steps to touch the rope.
Now you see the procedure we are following. Once he is doing this, you can ask him to touch the rope, then as he steps forward, you can step away. Ask him to touch the rope, let him take a step or two, then you walk a step or two so that he has to keep walking. Just add one step at a time at first. Once he has walked the extra step, let him touch the rope then click and treat. Don't forget to give him a jackpot treat the first time he walks with you. You will gradually be able to walk farther and farther. It will not be long until he is used to walking with you. Remember not to click until he has touched the rope. You are not asking him to walk with you right now, you are asking him to touch the rope, so that is what you are going to click for.
If you don't want to count steps when you are walking, you can count seconds. The first time just have him move forward with you for one second, then two, then gradually longer and longer. Or, you can simply go by how far you move. The first time just walk a few inches, then gradually add a little distance at a time. Again, each animal has his own timetable. Some ponies will get this in one lesson, others will take several lessons. Some ponies will zip through the process, others will need to back up and repeat until they get it. Remember, the key is OBSERVATION. Observe your pony, study him, learn how he thinks, and he will tell you what he needs. And always be aware of when your pony is getting discouraged, or thinking about stopping. You want to stop and let him touch the rope BEFORE he stops following it. If you misjudge and he stops before you do, then just back up and try again, walking just a little less than you did the last time he was successful. Remember to always end with success!
When you are walking, you will face forward, and hold your right arm out to your side. This will result in your walking ahead of your pony's head, not near his shoulder. His muzzle will be right behind your hand, which is even with or slightly behind your body. I find this to be an excellent position for walking with my mules, and I think you will find it to be true with your pony as well. We will talk more about the benefits of this position in another column.
Is this the only way to train your pony to walk nicely on a lead? No. But this is the way I trained my mule, and I have been very pleased with the lovely results. He walks to my right, with his muzzle and head about even with my body, or slightly behind. If I want to turn right, I simply rotate my wrist and move my hand slightly to the right, and he turns. If I want to turn left, I rotate my wrist that way, and move my hand slightly to the left, and he turns. He does this both while on a lead and off. I like this position because we don't bump each other when we turn. If you prefer to have your pony walk more forward than this, then that is the position you should take when you are training.
Next week, we will continue talking about the leading process, and you will learn a fun game to play with your pony. Until then, happy clicking!
EagleGirl
|
EagleGirl & Deerslayer | | 2010-09-24 06:35:19 | | Clicker Column Wiggins Weekly Volume 4 Number 12 - September 25, 2010
Last week we talked about how to teach your pony to target a rope, and to walk with you. You walk, holding out the rope while he follows it, and when you stop and let him touch it, then you click and treat. This week, we are going to continue our discussion of teaching your pony to lead by having him target the rope. And we are going to learn a fun game to play with your pony that will enhance his training.
Once you have spent some time - this could be days, weeks, or in some cases even months - walking with your pony, letting him touch the rope, then clicking and treating, you should be to the point where you can walk all over the pasture and your pony will follow the rope you are holding in your hand. You can either hold out the end of the rope, or you can make a loop and hold out the loop. I like the loop because it is easier to control, and more visible to the pony.
Once your pony does this nicely in a straight line, you can begin rotating your hand to the left or right and clicking when he follows it. If you like, you can say "gee" when you turn to the right and "haw" when you turn to the left. Just rotate your wrist up to go to the right, and down to go to the left, then gently move your hand in the direction you want to go. If you are having your pony walk to the side and slightly behind you rather than right next to you, it is very easy to turn either direction simply by the wrist and hand movements. When you rotate your hand right (wrist turning up), you can then move your hand to the right in front of your pony's muzzle, while you begin walking slightly to the right. He should follow your hand and begin turning to the right. When you rotate your hand left (wrist turning down), you can then move your hand towards you as you begin walking slightly to the left, and your pony should follow and begin turning to the left. Observe your pony, and move as slowly as you need to. At the beginning, click the instant he begins to turn after being cued. You can gradually wait longer and longer until he is making the entire turn before being clicked and treated.
Once your pony is "leading" at liberty - without a lead - you are now ready to go to the next step. While you are reading this, stop and think for a moment - what IS the next step? What do you think you should do next?
In order for a pony to walk on a lead, the lead has to be touching him someplace. Eventually, the lead is going to be hooked to a halter on his head, but right now it is not. Since he is not wearing a halter you will be draping the lead over the pony's neck. How do you do this? Let's think about the process and what steps we need to take. In order for the lead to be on the pony's neck, he has to be comfortable with the rope touching him. So we are going to talk about how to accomplish this.
Again, this is how I taught my mule that he could walk on a lead and still be safe. We had to take very tiny steps, because he did not feel safe for a very long time. Most ponies are not going to need anywhere near the amount of time my mule needed, but they do still need to have things broken down into steps. So let's get your pony comfortable with having the rope touch him.
Your pony is now walking with you, following the rope as you walk so that he can touch it. Your next goal is to get it on his neck, so you are going to introduce that gradually. You and your pony are now going to play a fun game! My mule and I call this "The Rope Bump Game", and it is still one of his very favorite games. He loves it because all he has to do is stand still and let me bump him with the rope, and then eat treats. Your pony will learn to love it too.
To begin The Rope Bump Game, stand in front of your pony and hold up the rope. Click and treat. If he shies away, just hold it up a little more slowly and try again. Continue this, observing him carefully, and working with him until he will stand when you hold up the rope. Once he is standing still when you hold up the rope, you are ready for the next step. Hold the rope up and let the end of it swing just a little. Immediately click, put the rope down, and treat. Repeat. You can move the rope around a bit. You can hold it in front of his face, to the left, to the right, a little higher, a little lower. The object is to get him comfortable with standing by the rope while it is moving. Once he is doing well, you can swing it a little wider. Just take your time and observe your pony! You will see if he is getting uncomfortable. Chances are, once he figures out that all he has to do is stand there and let you swing the rope, and he keeps getting treats, he is not going anywhere!
The next step will be to gently swing the rope beside his face. Don't swing too closely, but swing the rope very gently from front to back right beside his head. The instant the rope passes his head, click, drop the rope,then treat. Do this on both sides. Once he is doing well with this, you can lengthen the part of the rope you are swinging, and swing it a little wider. You can also swing it twice before clicking, then thrice, and so on. Continue in this fashion, building on the successes you have already had.
Eventually you are going to take the rope, and while you are swinging it, VERY gently bump it against his neck. Do NOT do this too close to his head; you don't want to bump him in the face right at first. And try to have the rope lay lengthwise against his neck when it bumps him, rather than bumping him with just the end. The end will have more force behind it, and he might interpret that bump as a hit. Bumping him with the length of the rope is gentler. The exact instant the rope touches his neck, click. Then bring the rope down and give him a jackpot treat. Repeat the process with a normal treat. If he was a bit nervous, it is fine to give a jackpot the second time too. Do this several times, then you can try it on the other side. Some ponies are much more nervous when someone is on their off side. If your pony is like this, don't push him right now. You can swing the rope on that side, but you can always wait to bump him on that side until he is more comfortable with the game.
You will gradually progress to swinging the rope by his shoulder and bumping him there, to his side, his back, his forelegs, his belly, his hindquarters, his back legs, even his face and ears . . . Eventually you will be able to swing that rope and bump him anywhere with it, and he will stand still and wait for that click and treat! Once you are both really good at the game, you don't have to click every time you bump him. You can bump him one, two, three or more times, then click and treat.
When working with his head, you will also want to work with draping the rope over his face, in addition to bumping it. You can gradually increase the amount of time you allow the rope to lie on his face before you click and treat. You will want to do this in various places on his face and head, and you will want to not only allow the rope to lie still on his face, but you will want to slowly pull it across his face as well. This will help to prepare him for having a halter on.
Just remember, you are VERY gently BUMPING him with the rope. You are not hitting him! And because you are so gentle, and he learns to associate the bumps with treats, he will have no fear of the rope. Even if you accidentally do hit him with a rope at some point, he will not perceive it as such, because you have played the rope bump game, and he knows that you do not ever hit him with the rope! And more than that, he looks at being bumped with a rope as a positive thing. This actually happened with my mule recently. I was pulling a rope off the gate, and it caught for an instant, then popped off the gate and over into my mule's face! He just stood there looking at me, and didn't even flinch. He was probably disappointed that I didn't click and treat, since I had neither my clicker nor my treats with me, but I did pet him profusely and tell him what a good boy he was!
Now, you and your pony know how to play The Rope Bump Game. If he is ever nervous about anything, like having the farrier work with him, you can pull out the rope, along with your clicker and treats, and start playing your game, and you will be amazed at how he will relax. It makes anyone feel better to have something familiar going on, and your pony is no exception. Once you have played it for a minute or two, you can hand the rope to the farrier and let him play with your pony for a few minutes, while you observe, click, and treat.
It may only take a day or two, or it could take weeks or months to get to the point where you can bump your pony anywhere, but this is not a race. Just move at a pace where your pony is happy and comfortable, and you will have success every time. Remember that the key is always observation. Observe your pony and he will tell you what he needs.
Next week we will talk about how to use The Rope Bump Game to teach your pony to have the rope around his neck. Until then, happy clicking!
EagleGirl |
EagleGirl & Deerslayer | | 2010-09-25 02:59:36 | | Hey Sarah! Yay! Holidays! We all love holidays, don't we gang? :-) We're glad you're back, though.
If he has improved, that is great. With steady, consistent work, he will keep improving. The most important thing is to be patient, don't push him, and OBSERVE him. Also, think through what it is you want him to do. Then backtrack through all the steps involved until you get to the very first one. It might help you to go back and read the posts in the Club from the very beginning. All of the Clicker Columns are posted here in the Club, as well.
Once you have determined what the very first step is, then that is what you work on. You may (and probably will) need to break that down into substeps. For instance, if you want to train him to walk on the leash, you might snap the leash on his collar, then put just a bit of tension on the leash. Just put enough so he knows the leash is attached. Then release the tension, wait a microsecond, then click and treat. Repeat.
Gradually increase the length of time you are standing with him on lead before you click and treat. Eventually, he should stand beside you on the lead. Once he is doing that, you can take a step forward and see if he steps with you. If he does, click and treat. If not, you might try putting just a bit of tension on the lead and waiting to see if he steps forward to release the tension. Click for ANY sign of forward movement. If he lifts a foot, click and treat. Continue in this way until he is taking a step with you. Then you can progress to two steps, three steps, etc.
I just got up from the computer and tried this with our dog. She is part Lab and is notoriously hard to train, because she gets so excited that she starts jumping around and barking and cannot hear anything you say. She responded really well just now, and I was quite pleased. Of course, it helps that Cookieman, CoolGuy and Nat2 have all gone somewhere. The more people that are around the more excited she gets. :-)
The key is OBSERVATION. Observe Razor, and see what he needs. The more you work with him, the better you will become at observing him and determining what you need to do next.
With our dog, I didn't not say anything, because the instant you speak she gets excited. So as she wiggled around, I just kept moving and turning so we were in the right position. I kept watching her, and as soon as she paused in her movement for a second (while we were in the right position) I clicked and gave her a piece of cat food. (She thinks dry cat food is a yummy treat - so that's what she gets!) Then after a few more times of this, I took a step and she went right with me. Click. Treat. We walked around the house, clicking and treating, for about two or three minutes, then I chanced speaking. I called her name, then said "Heel" then stepped off. She almost lost it the instant I spoke, but she did step with me so I clicked and treated.
I read in a dog training book years ago that you only call a dog's name before a command that requires him to move. So you would NOT call the dog's name before "Sit", "Stay", "Down", etc. But you WOULD call the dog's name before "Come" or "Heel".
Our dog is lying beside my chair now, quite pleased with herself. She doesn't know exactly what she did, but she got cat food, so she is happy. :-)
Anyway, use this same process, of tiny steps and sub-steps, to teach Razor anything you want to teach him. For fetch, you might hold up the toy, and click for any movement of his head towards it. Once he is consistently looking at it when you hold it up, you might move it and see if he follows it with his head/eyes. Click for any movement he makes to follow it. Continue in this way, working until he will reach out and take it out of your hand. Eventually, he should follow it all the way down to the floor, and take it from your hand there. Then you will put it down and move your hand away from it before he takes it. You can put it farther and farther away from him until he is taking steps to get to it. Then you can move to dropping it.
Having him give it back to you may or may not be a separate issue. You will train that in the same manner, observing him and working in tiny steps.
I hope this is helpful. Keep his short attention span in mind, and just work with him four or five minutes at a time. You might be able to work with him more than once a day, and you might not. Observe him to see when he might be receptive to training. But those five minute sessions will add up, and before long you will be amazed at what he is able to do with your guidance!
When I first started working with my mule, the first session was only a couple of minutes. It was all he could handle. Don't be afraid of starting small. That's how you start. It is better to work for two minutes while Razor is paying attention, than for ten minutes when he is not.
Please keep us posted on how you do. Also, you might think about keeping a log about your training. It will be so much fun to go back and read about your progress. Also, keeping a log will allow you to really think about what you did, what worked and what didn't, and how your dog thinks. |
EagleGirl & Deerslayer | | 2010-09-25 20:50:40 | | Sheltie and Boston, I have never heard of an Easy Walk. But it sounds like something that would be great for our dog! I have debated getting her a head halter for a long time, but have never decided if it would work for her. So now, I shall have to look for the Easy Walk the next time we go to the pet store.
Thanks so much for suggesting it to all of us! |
EagleGirl & Deerslayer | | 2010-09-26 19:06:46 | | | i hade my first clicker lesson with toby the other day... he was like: "forget the clicker thing and just give me the treat i know you are hiding behind your back!" | 
horseygirl00012 & Jasper | | 2010-09-30 21:43:29 | | Hi Lisa,
I recently watched an excellent video by Judy Ryder, titled "Clicker Training Your Horse to the Mounting Block". I am not certain if it is permissible to share the link on here, but I am including it just in case it is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqTZ77xZHIc&feature=related
If not, please have your parents search for that video on YouTube so you can watch it. It is really excellent. I love the atmosphere of calm that pervades the training session. The horse obviously has had lots of this sort of training, and revels in that calm.
As always, please be very careful when looking for things on the internet. It is always best to have your parents search for or with you.
Please let me know if you are able to access this video. I think you will find it very helpful. |
EagleGirl & Deerslayer | | 2010-10-01 19:01:04 | |
|
 |
 |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
